Split, Croatia is our home for the past nine years, following our move from Bucharest, Romania, and we are still in awe of its beauty every day. So we wanted to share some of it with you in this post, trying to answer to some of the most common questions we receive in the Split Croatia Travel group on Facebook, which we have created during the pandemic as a place where travelers can find useful information and local businesses can showcase their offer. We are now nearing 50k members and I am happy to meet some of the group members in person when they visit our shop.
Where is Split, Croatia
First of all, if you have never been, lets start by saying that our favourite Croatian city is beautifully placed in central Dalmatia, making it not just a great place to visit, but also the perfect base to explore nearby cities and islands.
Split, the second largest city in Croatia, seamlessly blends ancient history with modern-day charm. With its UNESCO-listed Diocletian's Palace, stunning waterfront, and delicious cuisine, Split offers something for everyone. Plus, the best souvenirs from Croatia are also handcrafted in Split - yes, you guessed it, we are talking about our very own Break Time nautical jewellery and accessories. And we do not get tired to mention that we were recommended by the New York times as one of the best three shops in Split, along with the local chocolate maker Nadalina and the local olive oil shop, Uje. So make sure to put us on your list and visit the Break Time Atelier & Flagship Store in Trogirska 8 Split Old Town (a few meters from the Fish Market, which we will tell you more about if you carry on reading!)
Things To Do & What To See In Split, Croatia
Explore Diocletian's Palace:
Wander through the maze-like streets of the palace, marveling at its Roman architecture. Stop by in Peristyle Square to admire the impressive Roman columns and the stunning architecture of the surrounding buildings - see if you can spot the Egyptian sphinxes! Also Peristil is a magical spot to enjoy live music and street performers in the evenings while sipping on a glass of wine from Luxor restaurant.
Visit the Cathedral of St. Domnius, one of the oldest cathedrals in the world, and make sure to climb all the way to the top of the bell tower for breath-taking views of the old town and waterfront.
Discover hidden courtyards and beautiful shops and restaurants that incorporate some of the original palace walls, such as FIG restaurant.
We recommend getting a walking tour of the palace and old town, otherwise you risk losing some of the best kept stories that these ancient walls have to tell. Plus, if you are a Game of Thrones fan, there are a couple famous filming locations around to discover. And a photo with the Roman guards is a must!
Also a must: when you get to the Golden Gate of the palace, make sure to rub the toe of the Gregory of Nin statue, for good luck and learn about the history of Gregory of Nin, a Croatian bishop who fought for the use of the Croatian language in the church.
Visit the Fish Market
Just a short 5 minutes walk from Diocletian's Palace, adjacent to the Marmontova street, the Fish Market is open from 6.30 in the morning until around 2 pm, but if you want to see a good variety of fish, from sardines to lobsters, go early. And if you want to taste some of that fresh fish, stop by next door at the small Zlatna Ribica (translates as "Golden Fish") restaurant, that has a small unpretentious menu featuring that day catch.
Fun fact: the Fish Market, or Pescarija, was deliberately built nearby sulphur springs, to it is, as fas as we know, the only fish market in the world where you will see no flies, since they are repelled by the smell of sulphur.
You will actually smell the sulphur yourself, especially as you go down from Marmontova on the Riva (since the sulphur spring goes into the sea in that area).
Get some fruit and veggies from the Green Market
Pazaar, as the locals call it, is a big, loud, colorful market where you can find all seasonal fruit and veggies, but also those imported ones that apparently we cannot live without.
Take a stroll amongst the vendors, try to spot Dalmatia's most beloved veggie - Blitva (a leafie green from the swiss chard family that boiled with potatoes makes for a traditional staple food of Splićani). Whatever you buy here, you will probably end up paying a bit more than a local for it, but if there is any consolation, I live here for 9 years and can ask for things in Croatia, but I still get the "tourist price" most times.
One great addition to the Green Market is Gudin Pigeria, a small quirky bistro with seatings at the actual concrete market tables and mismatched chairs, that serves only pork dishes, but they are so delicious, you will want to come back for more. Try the char siu or the piglet and you can thank me later.
Relax on the Riva:
Do what the locals do and stroll along the picturesque waterfront promenade, lined with palm trees, cafes, bars, and restaurants. Soak up the sun and people-watch, then enjoy a coffee, a refreshing cocktail or a delicious meal with stunning sea views. We recommend Brasserie on 7 - you cannot beat the view and they have great food and service (and the best breakfast in Split!).
Hike up Marjan Hill:
Escape the city bustle and hike up Marjan Hill, a forested park with stunning panoramic views of Split and its islands. Stop for a drink at Teraca Vidilica and then continue up the trail to the newest viewpoint (opened in 2024) - The Observation Deck
If walking is not your forte, you can take the Marjan Park free electric bus - check the timetable at their office just opposite Ambasador Hotel (next to the entrance in the Javna Garaza public garage, which is also a great place to park your car, by the way).
Take a Day Trip to the Islands:
Visit the nearby islands of Brač, Hvar, or Šolta for crystal-clear waters, charming villages, and stunning beaches. You can use the local ferry and fast catamaran lines like Jadrolinjia, Krilo and TP-Line.
Take a boat tour to explore hidden coves and snorkel in the Adriatic Sea. We highly recommend Croatia Boat Tours and make sure to ask that Marin is your skipper!
Tips for Visiting Split
Pack for warm weather: Split enjoys a Mediterranean climate with hot, sunny summers. The shoulder months are also pretty warm. For instance, as I am writing this article it is the end of October and it is quite warm, 23 degrees Celsius, basically still beach weather. In the evenings it can be a bit chillier, but nothing a windbreaker or blazer cannot fix. Winter months rarely bring very cold weather, usually temperatures are around 10 degrees Celsius, with few days when they drop a few degrees more.
Learn a few Croatian words: A little effort goes a long way in making your trip more enjoyable. Locals appreciate it being thanked in Croatian - "Hvala" (but the Dalmatian slang is even easier to pronounce: "fala"). One other useful word that is used both as Hello and Good bye here in Dalmatia is "Bok". And a third one you must learn is "fjaka", which is the local relaxed state of mind and state of affairs...no true Dalmatian is ever in a hurry, life is to be enjoyed over 3h long coffee breaks with friends.
Book a wine tasting
Croatia has SO many great wines, you must try at least a few and the best way to do that when you visit Split is to book a wine tasting. We warmly recommend Zinfandel Food & Wine Bistro, which has also got a mention in the 2024 Michelin guide. They have a huge selection of wines by the glass to enjoy, very knowledgeable staff and also very yummy dishes. And live music in the evenings, every day in the summer, and during weekends in the off season. I truly cannot recommend them enough!
Rent a car for two days and visit Trogir, Sibenik, Krka National Park and Zadar
You do not need a car when you visit Split, since you can just walk to most attractions and for the islands you can just hop on a ferry. But if you would like to explore some more at your leisure, then just rent a car for a couple days and drive north along the coast. Stop in Trogir and walk around the old town and the waterfront. Go for a stroll and a coffee in Primošten, then head over to Šibenik for a visit to the Cathedral of St. James and St. Michael Fortress. Right before you reach Sibenik though, make sure also to stop at another UNESCO heritage site, the Saint Nicholas Fortress, that scared off the turks in the 16th century (the waterway towards the fortress alone makes the visit worthwhile).
Reserve a whole day for a trip to the Krka National Park, where you can admire beautiful nature and breath-taking waterfalls. Before evening falls, head over to Zadar to watch the most beautiful sunset ever and to listen to the wind and waves create ethereal music thanks to the Sea Organ. Right next to the sea organ is another major attraction, Greetings to the Sun. If you do not have two days, you can also visit all of the above in one day, just leave early from Split.
Split is more city break than beach vacation
Although we do have a few beaches within the city limits, they are not exactly our favourites. Also, not a lot of beach clubs in Split at the moment, so if that is your vibe, maybe check our Le Meridien Lav just outside Split (our favourite beach club, Gooshter) or one of the beaches further south, such as Duce or Brela.
But if you must, then check our Kasuni beach, that does have a beach club, or Bene, further on into Marjan forrest. There is bus number 12 that leaves from the edge of Old Town, in front of the sveti Frane church, and can take you to either. Also Jadran beach club closest to the old town. And Kastelet beach. All rocky beaches (so make sure to get beach shoes, you can find them cheap at the Green Market or of better quality but still inexpensive at Decathlon), because Croatia is not really famous for sandy beaches. We do have a sandy beach in town, Bacvice, but it is not as glam as it sounds. It is a good spot to watch the locals indulge in their favourite water sport though - picigin, and there are some good places to eat around, one of our favourite being Matoni.
